Icy Ascent

Will Gadd has made many tough climbs in his life. But scaling a frozen portion of Niagara Falls was his most daring yet. It was the middle of winter, and freezing temperatures had turned part of the waterfall into ice. Gadd hung from ice picks he’d dug into the frozen falls. The cascading water was close enough for him to reach out and touch. If something went wrong, he would plummet into the swirling, icy rapids below. But he kept climbing. 

Gadd’s friends call him “Captain Adventure” for a reason. Over the past few decades, he’s chased most of the thrills extreme sports have to offer. He has battled white-water rapids and paraglided over mountains. But none of his adventures compared with ice climbing one of the world’s most powerful waterfalls.

Will Gadd has made many tough climbs in his life. But his most daring was climbing a frozen section of Niagara Falls. It was the middle of winter, and freezing temperatures had turned part of the waterfall into ice. Gadd hung from ice picks he’d dug into the frozen falls. The flowing water was close enough for him to reach out and touch. If something went wrong, he would fall into the swirling, icy rapids below. But he kept climbing. 

Gadd’s friends call him “Captain Adventure” for a reason. It’s not just that he’s into the thrill of extreme sports. Over the past few decades, he’s chased some of the biggest thrills that these sports offer. He has battled white-water rapids, and he’s paraglided over mountains. But none of his adventures compared with this one. He was ice climbing one of the world’s most powerful waterfalls.

The beauty and strength of the falls have attracted many adventurers. Jean-François Gravelet, for example, walked across the falls on a tightrope in 1859. Annie Edson Taylor famously rode over the falls in a barrel in 1901. And many other people have attempted to take on the falls. Unfortunately, not all of them have survived.

“The falls present not only something to look at and admire, but a challenge,” says Sherman Zavitz, the official historian of the city of Niagara Falls, Ontario. “In some way or another, these adventurers want to conquer the falls.”

Gadd was no different. He had climbed other icy waterfalls, but there was something special about Niagara Falls. “There’s a reason millions of tourists go every year,” says Gadd.

The falls’ beauty and strength have attracted many adventurers. Jean-François Gravelet walked across the falls on a tightrope in 1859. Annie Edson Taylor rode over the falls in a barrel in 1901. The stunt made her famous. And many other people have tried to take on the falls. Some did not survive.

“The falls presents not only something to look at and admire, but a challenge,” says Sherman Zavitz. He’s the official historian of the city of Niagara Falls, Ontario. “In some way or another, these adventurers want to conquer the falls.”

Gadd was no different. He had climbed other icy waterfalls. But Niagara Falls had something special about it. “There’s a reason millions of tourists go every year,” says Gadd.

Gadd chose Horseshoe Falls for his ascent. It’s the largest of Niagara’s three falls. The extreme power of the waterfall prevents it from freezing over entirely, but icy columns form at its edge during particularly cold winters. 

These columns of ice consist of a combination of water that froze while flowing over the falls and spray ice. Spray ice forms when falling water is aerosolized on impact at the base of the falls, resulting in a fine mist. “Spray ice has a lot more air in it,” says Gadd. “So it doesn’t bond as well to rock or normal ice. It tends to form in layers—a layer of ice, then snow, then more ice.” Gadd said the ice peels easily, almost like an onion. It can be incredibly dangerous to climb.  

Gadd chose Horseshoe Falls for his climb. It’s the largest of Niagara’s three falls. The power of the waterfall stops it from freezing over completely. But icy columns form at its edge during cold winters. 

These columns are made of different types of ice. One type is water that froze while flowing over the falls. Another is spray ice, which forms when falling water hits the base of the falls. The water is aerosolized, turning into a fine mist. “Spray ice has a lot more air in it,” says Gadd. “So it doesn’t bond as well to rock or normal ice. It tends to form in layers—ice, then snow, then more ice.” Gadd said the ice peels easily, almost like an onion. It’s dangerous to climb.  

Temperature also affects the stability of ice. Water expands as it freezes. But extremely cold temperatures can cause ice to contract. If the ice then warms, it re-expands. These fluctuations, or changes, put stress on the ice and make it weaker. And weak ice can mean big trouble for climbers like Gadd.

Temperature can also make ice less stable. Water expands as it freezes. But extremely cold temperatures can make ice contract. If the ice warms again, it re-expands. These fluctuations, or changes, put stress on the ice and make it weaker. And weak ice can mean big trouble for climbers like Gadd.

Gadd and his team worked for more than a year to get the necessary permits for the climb, which took place in January 2015. They created a safety plan that involved Gadd rigging safety ropes on his way up to act as lifelines in case he fell. “My first thought was, ‘This isn’t a good idea,’” says Tom Watt, the superintendent of Niagara Falls State Park. “But ultimately it was Gadd’s experience and the professionalism of his team that made it manageable.”  

Gadd and his team needed permits for the climb, which took place in January 2015. They worked for more than a year to get them. They also formed a safety plan. It involved Gadd rigging safety ropes on his way up. The ropes would act as lifelines in case he fell. “My first thought was, ‘This isn’t a good idea,’ ” says Tom Watt, the superintendent of Niagara Falls State Park. “But ultimately it was Gadd’s experience and the professionalism of his team that made it manageable.”  

The night before the climb, Gadd made his final preparations. He hung from a rope over the edge to clear hanging ice from the frozen column he’d be ascending. The icy chunks—some the size of small cars—could have fallen and injured him while climbing. In addition to using ice axes and spiked crampons that attach to the soles of climbing boots, Gadd decided to bring ice hooks. These long, curved ice picks are designed to tackle the difficult ice conditions he would face. At the end of the day, Gadd was as ready as he could be. The question was: Would it be enough? 

The night before the climb, Gadd made his final preparations. He hung from a rope over the edge. Then he cleared hanging ice from the frozen column he would climb. Some of the icy chunks were the size of small cars. They could have fallen and hurt him while climbing. Gadd would use ice axes and spiked crampons that fit on the soles of climbing boots. But he also decided to bring ice hooks. These long, curved ice picks are made to tackle the difficult ice conditions he would face. At the end of the day, Gadd was as ready as he could be. The question was: Would it be enough? 

The day of the climb, Gadd sank his ice hooks deep into the ice and began pulling himself up. After an hour of careful climbing, he made it! Standing atop the falls and peering back at the raging water below him, Gadd felt nothing but respect for the magnificent natural wonder. “I’ve never been anywhere else in the world that literally shakes the ground,” he says.

The day of the climb, Gadd sank his ice hooks deep into the ice. He began pulling himself up. After an hour of careful, freezing climbing, he made it! Gadd stood on top of the falls and gazed at the raging water below. He felt nothing but respect for the amazing natural wonder. “I’ve never been anywhere else in the world that literally shakes the ground,” he says.