Big-Wave Photographer

I started taking photos regularly when I was 16. I went on to study art in college. Afterward, I bought my first underwater camera. The first time using it, I knew I wanted a career in the water. I went on to study filmmaking in graduate school in California and started photographing and filming surfers there. I’ve now done this for more than 30 years all over the world.

You need to be a good swimmer. I was on the swim team since I was 7 and also raced on my school’s running team. So I have strong legs, which I rely on when I’m swimming because I’m holding my camera with my hands.

Doing this job also means you need to spend a lot of time in the ocean. That allows you to learn its dynamics, like where currents are moving and how and when a wave is going to break.

I’ve also trained in free diving. Free diving is when you dive hundreds of feet underwater without breathing equipment. And I’ve trained in water safety to learn rescue techniques specific to the dangers
of big waves.

Early in the morning, I load all my gear into the car. I’ll have my camera equipment, wet suit, swim fins, and two safety vests.

One vest is padded to protect against impacts. The other is inflatable. If a wave pulls me underwater for too long, I can pull a cord to fill the vest like a balloon and rise to the surface. I wear both vests when I’m in the water.

Once I arrive at the beach and put on my gear, I’ll ride a Jet Ski or boat out onto the water. Before a shoot, I’ll check the surf conditions. That way, I’ll know how tall and far apart the waves are going to be in a particular area. This helps me time my shots.

As the surfer is going down the wave, I’ll be holding my camera while kicking and swimming up the wave. I want to intersect with the path of the surfer at the perfect moment where I can capture both her athletic prowess and the beauty of the wave.

When a big wave rises in front of you, it takes your breath away. I think seeing a woman riding these waves changes what people think women are capable of. Surfing big waves is about conquering impossible dreams and pushing your limits.

Hawaiian surfer Brian Keaulana said, “We’re not divided by land, we’re connected by water.” That’s what I feel when I’m shooting waves. I want to share that so others can feel the same awe of the ocean. I hope my work will inspire them to protect and take care of it.